Post sun repair

Wrinkles are the benchmark of declining collagen levels and can affect all age groups when UV radiation assaults cells, breaking down DNA via the sun’s proton energy. There are substances that help prevent DNA damage and support the skin’s natural ability to repair itself, and biotechnology is inspiring cosmetic chemists to develop some of the most revolutionary skin care in the history of the industry.

With this in mind, CosMedix is launching CELL ID in September, featuring growth factors, enzymes, amino acids and antioxidants, as well as a mitochondria extract to give energy to the cells. It is formulated to help reduce wrinkle depth, minimize fine lines, enhance skin’s texture and diminish age spots.

But while science tries to catch up with consumer expectations, a realistic approach to the treatment of aging skin is to optimize the skin’s health and condition by ensuring ample hydration of tissues, stimulating collagen formation in the dermis and eliminating the triggers that lead to aging skin.

These include the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), or free radicals, and advanced glycation end products (AGE), as well as the stimulation of matrix metalloproteinase enzymes (MMPs) that break down collagen and elastin. When MMPs are activated, collagen production automatically shuts down. So if MMPs are turned off and a means of stimulating collagen formation is provided, one of the key triggers to aging skin can be countered. Likewise, providing antioxidants to the skin helps control ROS formation.

For something completely different, YG Labs is currently working on new technology, scheduled to launch in summer 2011, specifically aimed at brightening age spots. The company has established a little recognized pigment caused by toxic waste that builds up in the cell, indirectly caused by sun damage, and has been identified as a major component in age spots. Research indicates melanin-specific ingredients do not affect this pigment, which Gadberry believes explains why so many skin lighteners don’t work well on this condition. “We have found that the majority of age spots are caused by this waste, not by melanin,” explained Rebecca James Gadberry. YG Labs is currently in trials with the product, which features a new delivery vehicle and new system of ingredients that address the toxic waste issue.

Read more about sun care ingredients in the September 2010 issue of GCI magazine.

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