Inflamm-aging

While extrinsic factors such as UV exposure, chemicals and environmental pollution play a major role in the aging process, inflammation is now recognized as a major cause of intrinsic aging.

With age, the immune system becomes less effective and inflammatory activity increases. This can lead to chronic inflammation characterized by a slow but continuous production of free radicals causing wrinkles and sagging skin. “Inflammation is a vicious cycle that leads to wrinkles and other signs of aging,” said Mibelle Biochemistry’s Beata Hurst.

Inflammatory enzymes initiate the process that causes skin aging. These enzymes normally destroy old or damaged skin tissues to make way for new ones. With chronic or recurring inflammation, however, the immune system continues to produce low levels of inflammatory chemicals including free radicals, leading to the continuous damage of the surrounding tissues.

Mibelle is looking to inhibit the inflammatory reaction with MAXnolia, a water-dispersible active powder based on magnolia bark extract, a natural inhibitor of the po-inflammatory transcription factor NF-KB. Soon Mibelle also will introduce CM-Naringenin-Chalcone, a single molecule derived from naringenin, a flavanone naturally occurring in the peel of citrus fruit. In a clinical study performed on volunteers with rosacea skin, CM-Naringenin-Chalcone, clearly diminishes capillary blood flow and thereby the appearance of facial redness for consumers at almost any age.

Glycation, the binding of a protein molecule to a glucose molecule, causes many aging symptoms as well. Proteins such as collagen and elastin can get damaged by reducing sugars under harsh conditions. This leads to the formation of Advanced Glycation End products (AGE), which then react with cellular receptors to produce inflammatory reactions. The accumulation of AGEs eventually leads to a gradual stiffening and loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin. Anti-glycation and anti-aging compounds, such as the much-hyped theraglycan-3, to reduce actual AGE content in the skin will be an emerging trend moving forward.

The proof is in the science. According to Hurst, backing up claims with real science to validate efficacy builds consumer and client trust and keeps the market growing. Mibelle proves its claims with in vivo testing, showing the results on live skin. With further understanding of the underlying causes of aging, such new claims such as anti-inflammation, as well as anti-glycation, anti-redness and growth factors will allow products to specifically target various needs. “The anti-aging market is going to be much more specific moving forward,” explained Hurst. “We now need to treat the specific needs of customers with precise applications.”

It’s not your grandma’s wrinkle cream anymore. No longer do products only assure a reduction in lines and wrinkles, but the aim is also to offer an improvement of skin structure, an even skin, diminution of pigmentation disorders, and increase of elastin production, for a firmer, supple and healthier appearance of the skin.

Read more about Anti-Aging Solutions in the December 2013 issue of GCI magazine.

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